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The Lighthouses of Maine in Winter Light
Summer may belong to the tourists, but winter belongs to the lighthouses.
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There’s something about Salem in October that feels utterly enchanted. The city hums with a kind of energy you can’t quite pin down - part history, part theater, part carnival, and part sacred ground. On a recent New England Traveler episode, titled “Witch Way to Salem?”, Salem’s magic made itself known in the most unexpected way. In the middle of filming my Witch City Walking Tour with tour company owner Beth Crowley as my guide, I was suddenly transformed into… a pirate. Yes, full hat, boots, the swaggering strut. I stayed in character the whole day, walking through Salem’s streets as if I’d just disembarked from a tall ship. The magical thing is, no one batted an eye. In Salem, where cosplay is practically the city’s second language, I was just another character in the mix.
And that’s what Salem does - it blurs the line between past and present, between reality and roleplay. The heart of that experience for me wasn’t just the costume (though I confess, it was hard to give up the pirate’s confidence), but the walk itself, guided by Witch City Walking Tours. If you only do one thing in Salem, this is where you should start. The tour lays the foundation, gives you context, and stitches together history, architecture, folklore, and storytelling in a way that makes everything else - from the museums to the shops - more meaningful.
The tour exists thanks to Beth Crowley, who founded Witch City Walking Tours in 2014. Beth first arrived in Salem in 2007 and, like many of us, fell under its spell. A born teacher and storyteller, she blended those skills into something special: a walking tour that combined rigorously researched history with approachable, engaging narrative. She started by leading the tours herself, often just a handful of curious visitors at a time. Over the years, her company has grown into one of the most respected tour experiences in town, recognized nationally for its cultural and historical depth.
Beth’s background as an educator is evident in the way she and her team guide their groups. You don’t just hear ghost stories or rehearsed lines—you feel like you’re in conversation with Salem itself. There’s balance: accuracy paired with accessibility; hard truths paired with a touch of theatrical flourish. And, as my pirate turn proved, she leaves plenty of room for magic.
The “History & Hauntings” tour I embarked on, begins at Old Town Hall in Derby Square and unfolds like a play performed by the streets themselves. You’ll hear the history of the 1692 Salem Witch Trials, where fear and superstition sparked accusations that cost twenty people their lives. Beth and her guides explain the nuance: how religious fervor, local politics, and deep social divisions all converged to create the tragedy. The trials weren’t just about witchcraft - they were about community unraveling under pressure.
But what makes Witch City Walking Tours stand out is their refusal to stop at 1692. They layer in Salem’s seafaring past, its architectural gems, the fire that reshaped downtown, the immigrant stories, and yes, the folklore and ghost tales that cling to the stones. You’ll pass 17th- and 18th-century homes, burying grounds, and quiet alleys where it feels like history still lingers in the air. The city becomes a character in its own story. And if you happen to be in a pirate costume while you’re hearing it? Well, that just adds another layer of fun.
Salem is a sensory overload in October. Lanterns glow, shop windows beckon, costumed revelers fill Essex Street, and museum lines snake around the block. Without context, it’s a whirlwind - exciting but overwhelming. Witch City Walking Tours gives you the grounding you need. When you walk with Beth’s team first, everything else clicks into place. The Salem Witch Museum isn’t just theatrical - it’s a reminder of the real lives you just heard about. The crooked house on the corner isn’t just photogenic - it’s connected to a story that now lives in your memory. Even the haunted houses and street performers feel different, richer, because you’ve walked the history first.
And here’s the kicker: Witch City Walking Tours was recently named the #1 Cultural & Historical Tour in the United States by TripAdvisor. That doesn’t happen by accident. It’s the product of guides who do their research, share their passion, and never forget that history isn’t just facts on a page - it’s people, voices, and lives.
In 1692, Salem was still a small colonial settlement divided by fear and tension. When several young girls began displaying strange behaviors, the community - already primed by religious intensity and political strife - turned to witchcraft as an explanation. What followed was one of the darkest chapters in American history: accusations snowballed, trials were held with little reliable evidence, and lives were ruined. Twenty were executed, one man was pressed to death under heavy stones, and many more languished in prison.
The trials have become a lasting symbol of injustice and mass hysteria. And yet, walking Salem’s streets today, you realize they’re also a lesson in resilience. The city has carried that story forward- not to sensationalize, but to remember. Witch City Walking Tours makes sure visitors see the humanity behind the history, giving voice to those silenced in 1692.
Arrive early. Parking throughout the city fills quickly, and Derby Square bustles long before tours begin.
Dress smart. October breezes off the water can chill you fast - bring layers. If you feel like going full pirate, trust me: you’ll blend right in.
Engage with your guide. Ask questions, share thoughts - the tours are more than lectures, they’re conversations.
Leave room in your schedule. After the tour, wander. That’s when Salem opens itself to you: a café here, a shop there, a moment in a quiet cemetery.
You’ll want to peek into the Salem Witch Museum, pose for photos at Witch Pix, or even wander through Real Pirates Salem. And of course, there are countless cafés and restaurants to enjoy. But I’ll say it again—do the walking tour first. Salem is a magical city, yes, but like all good magic, it’s best understood once you know the spell behind it. Beth’s guides give you that spell.
Closing Reflection: Salem, A City of Stories
What lingers for me isn’t just the thrill of being transformed into a pirate for a day - though I admit, that’s a memory I’ll carry with a grin. It’s the feeling that Salem itself invited me into its story. Dressed as a seafarer, I walked streets once trod by accused witches, by sailors, by immigrants and merchants, by countless storytellers who came before me. And the most remarkable thing? In Salem, that blending of history, imagination, and play isn’t unusual at all. It’s expected. It’s welcomed.
That’s Salem’s true magic. It’s a place where history breathes, where tragedy is remembered, and where joy and play intermingle with reverence. Witch City Walking Tours captures all of that in a way that no museum or exhibit alone can. Whether you show up in sneakers or in pirate boots, Salem will take you in, give you its stories, and send you home just a little more enchanted than before.
One of the most meaningful parts of sharing these Salem stories for New England Traveler has been that, in spite of the cameras, script outlines and shot-lists, everything always felt spontaneous. No matter how many scenes we planned or interviews we filmed, the real story was always happening right in front of me - the press of leaves on my shoes, the laughter acoustic in candlelit hallways, or the moment when a museum curator shared a family tale that surrendered the exhibit’s walls.
It’s easy to look back on the Salem Witch Trials of 1692 with dread, or Halloween with skepticism, but Salem - true Salem - teaches me to look deeper. To find not only the costumes, but the curiosity; not only the brand, but the belonging; not only the past, but the people who carry it forward with each fall step they greet us with. Salem always does that to me.
If you’re planning your own autumn pilgrimage this October, let me offer this small nudge: bring your sense of wonder and a comfortable pair of walking shoes, and allow yourself to be beckoned off the beaten path. Wherever you land - on a crooked street or in a tucked-away shop - don’t be surprised if you find yourself older, softer, and just a little more enchanted.
One final tip. Salem is extremely crowded from early September through the entire month of October. Even August can start to feel crowded. They don’t label it “Summerween” for nothing!
As the calendar approaches Halloween, the Witch City becomes even more so. Hotel rooms book months (even a year or more) in advance. Restaurant reservations are booked with the same advance notice. Traffic for both automobiles and pedestrians can be excruciating. I mentioned some items you should bring above. Make sure to also bring your patience. There are only so many hotel rooms, restaurant tables and museum tickets to be had and they all sell out every year.
The old saying goes “If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.” That applies to your fall visit to Salem. Make your reservations early and buy tickets online in advance when you can. You will have a much more enjoyable experience and truly be able to soak in the spirit of all that Salem has to offer if you do.
My expert final tip: Whenever possible, take public transit. The City of Salem does a good job of setting up satellite parking locations in neighboring Beverly and Danvers during this time of year they call ‘Haunted Happenings’. Take advantage and save yourself the stress of Salem traffic and parking during the busiest season of the year.
